Many rescues will try to put dogs into foster homes after they might have spent some time at the shelter without being adopted. This gives the dog a chance to recover from the stress of being kenneled, while providing space in the kennel for a new dog. Additionally, the foster volunteer has the opportunity to work with the dog to correct some of the behavior problems that may have led to the dog's surrender.


It seems that medium-to-large, adolescent, untrained dogs are prime candidates for foster homes. They may be overlooked at the shelter because they are too big, unruly, or ordinary-looking. They are past the adorable puppy stage, but still have plenty of puppy energy that needs an outlet. Given enough time, and some basic training, these dogs that might otherwise be euthanized for lack of space now have a chance at finding permanent, loving homes.

Aside from regular day-to-day care (feeding, grooming, exercise), the responsibilities of a foster home may include basic training (housetraining, walking on leash, sit, down); behavior modification (to correct problems such as jumping, mouthing, barking, destructive chewing, dashing through doors); socialization and temperament evaluation (to determine whether the dog is good with different types of people and other animals); medical care (dispensing medication, taking the dog to vet appointments), and of course plenty of playtime and snuggling.

After the dog has been nursed back to health, evaluated, and trained, the search begins for a permanent home. Possible methods for finding an adoptive home include hanging posters at the shelter, workplace, and pet supply stores; attending adoption events; putting an ad in the newspaper; posting the dog's picture on the internet; and simply spreading the word about the dog to anyone who will listen. Prospective adopters will have the opportunity to come and meet the dog in a home setting.

Fostering a dog may seem like a formidable task, but it is a very tangible way to make a difference. Everyone benefits: The foster volunteer gets to spend time with a special dog, and the kennel gains space for a new dog. The foster dog gets a break from kennel life and a second chance at becoming a cherished pet. The new owners get a dog that is better adapted to home life, and therefore has a better chance of remaining in the new home permanently.

What fostering is not!

There are a number of misconceptions about the true purpose of fostering a dog. Some people view fostering as a trial period to determine whether they want to adopt a dog permanently. Some start out with the right intentions, but become too attached to the dog and are unable to give it up. Others are only willing to foster one particular dog that they already feel an attachment to. One potential adopter even asked if she could foster instead of adopting because she wanted to get the dog without paying the adoption fee. In our opinion, none of these attitudes reflect the true spirit or intent of foster care programs.

Although we can understand why the general public may be confused about the purpose of foster care for dogs, we are continually surprised to find that many people in animal rescue don't always get it either. Encouraging foster families to adopt their foster dogs is generally not a great idea! Why? Because in most cases, people who foster already have one or several "forever" dogs. They probably don't have many extra slots for new dogs in their packs, either because of time and space constraints, or because their municipality allows only a certain number of pets per household. If a foster family adopts a dog, that "slot" is no longer available for the next needy dog.

So how do I prevent myself from becoming too attached? Never think of a foster dog as "mine." Each dog already belongs to someone else -- it just so happens that you haven't met that person yet. The dogs just stay with you until their special person is able to come and take them home. One foster volunteer looks for minor, arbitrary faults in each new dog: "Oh, well, we don't need another male." "This one's nice, but we already have a white one." And of course the easiest way to keep from getting too attached is to remember that there is another dog that needs your help after this one goes home.

Try not to be too picky about which dogs you will foster. Within limits, take whichever dog needs you at the time. Your only requirements might be that the dog can reasonably be expected to get along with your other dogs and not devour your cat. They need your help to become healthy, trusting, well-behaved companions. Sometimes they are perfectly healthy and well-mannered, but just need a little extra time and effort to find a new owner who can see their inner beauty.

Fostering is not a way to get a free dog. It is not a trial period before adoption. And it certainly isn't easy. Fostering is a way to help a dog that really needs you. At times, it's incredibly stressful. It requires dedication, hard work, serious time commitments, lots of stain remover, and -- above all -- an understanding of the purpose of the process. If you can't give your heart to a dog and then let it go when it doesn't need you anymore, you probably shouldn't get involved.

So what is fostering? For many, it's the most rewarding thing they've ever done.


What should I do before bringing the foster home?


Your own dogs and your fosters should be vaccinated for rabies, distemper, parvo, and other common diseases, as recommended by your vet. The bordatella (kennel cough) vaccine may also be recommended. There is a good chance that your foster could be harboring a disease, and it isn't wise to unnecessarily risk your own pets' health. It would be ideal to keep incoming dogs separate from your own pets for a period of time if you have the space to do so (and this is a must if you are pulling dogs that haven't been fully vetted), but this isn't always realistic since the foster dog will be living in your home as a member of the family. If possible, see if your shelter can vaccinate and quarantine the dog for two weeks before you agree to bring him home.

Make sure you have a well-fitted collar and ID tag for the foster dog. Your group might provide this for you. Some shelters will also implant a microchip. Remember that this dog doesn't know you yet and might get spooked and run. Take all possible precautions. Better safe than sorry!

You will have to treat the new dog like a puppy at first. Puppy proof the house before he arrives. If he is young or has not been raised in a house, he might be destructive and not housetrained. You should set up a crate for him with bedding that can be easily cleaned or thrown away if soiled or chewed (like old towels).

If you choose not to use a crate, you should have a small, dog-safe room (like a laundry room) for when you cannot watch the dog. If you use an outdoor kennel for unsupervised time, make sure it is very secure (a cover or top is recommended) and be sure to provide appropriate shelter, shade, bedding, and clean water.

Bland Diet

Many new fosters either arrive with diarrhea, or develop it due to stress or a change in food. After many bouts of diarrhea with quite a few of new fosters, weI began to assume most of them would have some digestive issues, and often used the following as a preventive measure upon arrival. This is probably not necessary in most cases but also will not harm the dog with short term use. This method can also be used as needed for diarrhea, assuming the dog has no other medical issues.

1. Withhold food for approx. 12 hrs (or overnight) when the foster first arrives. Be sure to offer water.

2. Offer the dog a small meal consisting of one part cottage cheese to two parts white rice. You can substitute boiled hamburger instead of the cottage cheese, but I find the cottage cheese to be much simpler. Most dogs go crazy for this. You can serve slightly warm to make it more palatable. If dehydration is a concern, mix in a small amount of water.

3. For very small dogs (and for cats), you can use a jar of plain chicken baby food. (Cats can skip the rice, just use the chicken.) They will go nuts for this. Make sure there are no spices added.

4. If this is well tolerated, you can offer several small meals throughout the day.

5. Gradually begin to mix in a small amount of the dog's regular food. Over several meals, increase the amount of regular food and decrease the cottage cheese/rice mixture until the dog is eating only the regular food and is tolerating it well.
Using this method we generally find it unnecessary to purchase a supply of whatever brand of food the dog was eating before -- I just start with a short fast, then the rice/cottage cheese, and then begin adding the brand of dog food I will be using.

How do I introduce the foster to the resident animals?

The rescue may have already found out whether the dog gets along with other dogs and cats. If you aren't very familiar with dog to dog communication, you should do the introductions under the supervision of someone who is -- such as other members of the rescue. In the meantime, it's well worth it to become a student of canine communication. Spend time in dog parks watching how dogs interact. Invest in some books and videos on the subject.

You should introduce the foster dog to your own dog in a neutral location, if possible. If you are concerned about either of the dogs' potential reactions, you might want to try introducing them on opposite sides of a chain link fence. "I prefer to let dogs meet off leash when possible so that their body language is natural and not hindered by the leash."

“I introduce most of my fosters to my own dogs one at a time in my fenced yard, starting with my friendliest, most stable dog first. I try not to intervene more than necessary while the dogs are getting to know one another. A squirt bottle can be a useful deterrent to correct inappropriate behavior.”

This method has works because your know what to expect from your own dogs. You know your own dog better than anyone else, and you will soon be fairly astute at predicting his reactions to the various fosters that you bring home.

Unless you have reason to suspect bloodshed, you can expect most dogs to work things out pretty quickly without any major issues. You will notice a lot of circling and sniffing. You may initially see some posturing and growling but in most cases it will be mostly noise, and usually sounds much worse than it really is. If the dogs approach each other stiffly with a direct stare, ears erect and tails held high, you may be in for a serious confrontation and should intervene.

If the dogs seem basically okay with each other but still slightly uncomfortable, a leash walk side by side often seems to help. You may need to enlist a helper and start with the dogs under good control at a close heel and several feet apart. After a few walks like this, even the grumpiest dog can accept foster dogs and you can easily walk them side by side.

Soon the dogs might begin to play with each other. If not, they will usually at least tolerate each others presence. Even if the dogs seem to get along, it's a good idea to keep them separated when you are not around to keep an eye on things. Crates are a worthwhile investment, even if you haven't used one with your own dog. Many have one in nearly every room in the house. Baby gates are also good to have on hand. But you need to keep in mind that not all dogs will be able to tolerate small enclosures.

If you have cats or other small animals, please be careful. Use common sense and think about what the various breeds have been bred for. “I once fostered a coonhound who was surrendered for killing the family's pet rabbit. Although I'm sure it was devastating for the family, they couldn't have been too surprised at that outcome.” If you wish to introduce your foster dog to your resident cat, keep the dog on a leash. Small pets should have their own safe, dog-free retreats in your home. Baby gates are good because your cat can jump over (or sneak under) them. There are also some gates on the market that have small kitty access doors. Be sure the cat's food and litterbox are in a dog-free zone, or you might find that your beloved kitty is not eating or going to the bathroom because it's trying to avoid the scary new dog. Above all, never leave them alone together.

What are my responsibilities?

You will need to provide basic care such as food, water, shelter, grooming, and exercise. Your foster dog will need his own leash, collar, bowl, and toys. You will probably need to give the dog a bath when he arrives (unless the dog just had surgery -- if so, you may need to wait a few days), and be sure to check for fleas. If the dog is sick, you might have to give medications or transport the dog to vet appointments. The cost of vet care is typically covered by the shelter or rescue group, but all arrangements must be made through the group. If you choose to take the dog to a different vet without approval, you may be responsible for paying the bill. This is because most shelters and rescues either have a vet on staff, or have made arrangements with a specific vet who will treat all their rescue dogs at a reduced fee.
It's also important to provide some training. Housetraining is an essential skill for the dog to master. Crate training is useful, especially for young, destructive, or unhousetrained dogs. Basic manners such as appropriate greeting behavior, walking nicely on a leash, and coming when called will make your foster dog more adoptable and help to ensure his success in his new home. You might make the dog more appealing to potential adopters by teaching a fun trick, like shake hands, fetch, or take a bow.

By far the most important thing you need to provide is love and attention. Whether your foster came from a loving home or an abusive situation, he will probably be confused and anxious. Spend time cuddling, fetching, playing tug, and just hanging out watching TV together. Be patient; it might take him a few days or weeks to really settle in.

How do I find permanent homes for my fosters?

The rescue is working on this by posting on their site and in other places like Petfinder. You could put up posters at shelters, veterinarians' offices, pet supply stores, community bulletin boards, dog parks, dog training clubs, etc. Facebook is another great way to let people know about your foster.

Some dogs will only be with you for a few days. Others will be around for months, and you might start to wonder if they will live with you forever. Be patient. The right home will come in time.

How do I know my limits?

If you're like us, you would like to be able to rescue every dog that needs help. Recognize that you can't save them all. Learn to say no! You have other commitments that must take precedence at times -- family, job, your own pets. If you try to do too much, you will burn out. You need to be selective about which dogs you will take, and realistic about how many you can keep at one time. Above all, don't feel bad about wanting some time off between fosters. You deserve it.

Common Behavior Problems and Solutions

Many of the dogs that come into foster programs will have one or more of the following common behavior problems. In fact, the previous owner's inability to deal with these problems may have led to the dog's surrender. Your foster dog will become more adoptable if you work diligently to correct these behaviors

____________ The Ten Day Rule, or the "Honeymoon Period ___________________

It's a good idea to keep a foster dog for at least two weeks to truly evaluate his temperament (as well as to make sure he isn't harboring any illnesses). It is not unusual for a new dog to be very quiet and timid at first. Don't be surprised if new behavior problems crop up after about 10-14 days. This is actually a welcome sign, because it means that the dog is beginning to feel relaxed and letting his true personality show. Try to withhold judgments of the dog's temperament until this initial period has passed.
________________________________________________________________________

• Not Housetrained
o Rule out medical problems (intestinal problems, bladder infections, etc.)
o Supervise the dog constantly. Don't let him out of sight. (Use doors, gates or leash)
o Confine the dog whenever he can't be supervised (use a crate)
o Reward correct behavior: Give praise and treats when he does it right
o Feed on a set schedule. Don't just leave food in his bowl all day.
o Remove water several hours before bedtime
o Go outside on a schedule. Do not rely on the dog to tell you he needs to go.
o Go out frequently to figure out his schedule. Gradually eliminate unnecessary trips.
o Watch for signs like circling, sniffing, and whining.
o Interrupt the dog if you see him start to go (clap hands, "no, outside!")
o If it's too late, don't punish. The dog probably won't make the connection.
o Clean with enzymatic cleaner to remove odor.

• Marking in the house
o Neuter the dog
o Keep the dog on a leash tethered to your waist
o Interrupt the dog as he starts to lift his leg
o Crate the dog when you cannot watch him
o Tie a towel or "bellyband" around his waist to catch any leaks
o Spray any marked areas with an enzymatic cleaner

• Chewing
o Supervise the dog constantly
o Confine the dog whenever he can't be supervised (use a crate)
o Provide appropriate chew toys
o Use a bitter tasting spray (found at pet supply stores) on inappropriate items
o Puppyproof the house. If you leave your socks on the floor and the dog chews them, whose fault is that?

• Barking -- Dogs bark for different reasons. If the reason is...
o Boredom: Provide exercise and mental stimulation. Teach games like "find it" and provide challenging, food-dispensing toys like buster cubes and kongs.
o Loneliness: Bring the dog into the house with you
o Separation anxiety: Gradually teach the dog to tolerate being alone for longer periods
o To get attention: Ignore the dog. Reward quiet behavior.
o Stress: Ignoring won't work if dog is barking to relieve stress. Refocus the dog with obedience commands (sit, down, watch me, etc.) or move away from the source of stress.
o Guarding the neighborhood: If you can't supervise the dog to correct the behavior, confine him in a quiet area away from windows and doors so he won't be overstimulated by everything going on outside.
o If all else fails, consider a bark collar. Two types: shock and citronella spray. Collar choice depends on dog's temperament. Effectiveness depends on quality of the collar and consistent, correct collar use. Both types are humane and effective if used correctly, but consider the dog's temperament first, and watch for side effects (for example, generalized fear of the place where the collar went off).

• Jumping
o Ignore the dog when it jumps. Instruct every person the dog meets not to reward jumping with *any* attention. Remember, even shouting "no" is a form of attention. No need to kick or knee the dog in the chest; just turn away.
o Train an incompatible behavior: sit or "four on the floor." Dog can't jump and sit (or stand) at the same time.
o Be consistent!

• Dashing through doors
o Teach an incompatible behavior, eg: "wait." Dog must sit (or stand or down or make eye contact with you) before door opens, and must wait to go through the open door until given permission. Start with the leash attached, and practice until you can open the door and the dog doesn't budge.

• Pulling on leash
o Clicker training -- Click and reward (treat) every time the dog is walking beside you with a loose leash
o Be unpredictable -- Abruptly change direction any time the dog stops paying attention to you.
o "Be a tree" -- Don't move forward unless the leash is slack (personally this has never worked for me but may work for some)
o "Penalty yards" -- Return to the starting line each time the leash gets tight
o "Walking with a goal" -- Choose a goal that your dog will find rewarding (put some chicken on the ground several feet away, or choose a favorite smelly telephone pole). The dog must keep a loose leash in order to reach the goal.
o Targeting -- Teach the dog to touch your hand for food rewards. He can't pull if he is walking beside you.
o Management -- Use a special collar or harness for short-term management, while also continuing to work on long-term training solutions:
 Gentle Leader headcollar -- Fits around the neck and muzzle, like a horse's halter. Gently and effectively reduces pulling by giving you control of the dog's head. Do not jerk the leash because you could injure the dog's neck. Also make sure you keep the dog on a fairly short lead so that he can't get a running start and hit the end of the lead, twisting his neck. Disadvantages: There is an adjustment period, during which most dogs will try to paw or rub the collar off. Dogs can learn to pull with this type of collar.
 Prong or pinch collar -- Gives immediate, effective control for dogs that object to a headcollar. Some people refer to the pinch collar as "power steering." Collar must be fitted correctly to be effective. Advantage over Gentle Leader is that there is no adjustment period. Some dogs are more sensitive to the pinching sensation than others, so use with caution and consult an experienced trainer for assistance.
 Front-attach harness -- Makes it difficult to pull by putting the attachment point in front of the dog's chest, thus pulling the dog off balance. There are several brands on the market. Very effective if the dog's only issue is pulling. Not a good choice for dogs with other issues (such as lunging and barking at other dogs or people) since you have no control of the dog's head.
 Flexi (retractable lead) -- Most dogs enjoy the extra room to maneuver and will trot happily back and forth, rather than running to the end of the lead and continuing to pull. Please practice using your flexi before going out in public. In inexperienced hands, dogs on retractable leashes can be a nuisance or even a hazard. Read the instructions that came with your flexi and practice using the brake and retracting the lead in a quick, fluid motion.


• Running away / not coming when called
o Management -- Make sure the yard is secure. Keep the dog on leash when outside.
o Neutering -- This can reduce the tendency of a dog to roam, but will take some time to have an effect. Don't expect this to completely cure the problem because running away is already an established behavior.
o Practice recalls -- Start with the dog very close (in the house, on leash, or in a fenced area) and reward the dog every time it comes to you. Gradually increase the distance.
o Choose a special recall cue and make sure the dog is always rewarded for responding to the cue.
o Never call the dog for something unpleasant, like getting a bath.
o Don't call unless you are reasonably sure the dog will respond, or are in a position to enforce the command (dog is on a long line). Don't give him the option of not coming until he is reliably responding to the cue in training sessions. Otherwise, you are just teaching the dog to ignore your recall cue.
o Don't repeat your cue. If the dog fails to come on the first cue, go and get him.
o Do lots of repetitions until the dog responds without hesitation, regardless of distance and distractions.
o Remote training collar or e-collar -- This is a very effective tool to gain off leash control if used under the guidance of an experience trainer. For consistent performance, stick with quality brands (Dogtra, Tritronics). Use the lowest level that your dog can perceive. In general, commands should first be taught via another method (clicker & treats, leash & collar) and only then reinforced with the collar. Remember that the dog must first be taught what the sensation from the collar means and how he can stop the stimulation by complying with your command. The dog should be on a long line to begin this training. If your "training plan" consists of strapping on a collar, letting the dog run free, and pushing buttons until the dog magically returns to you, PLEASE do not even consider using an e-collar. This is a controversial issue and The DRC reserves the right to change or amend the use of e-collars.

• Aggression -- Consult with a trainer for help if your dog...
o Bites or snaps
o Growls or snarls when being handled
o Guards food or toys
o Exhibits any other behavior that would make you afraid to have the dog around other people or animals

Food Aggression - This is a common thing with shelter and puppy mill dogs. Here is one idea that worked:
Was watching the New York Animal Cops on Animal Planet. and when they come across a perfect dog with just one problem = food aggression then they have to euthanize it. We had a dog that we loved that had food aggression and we started out by filling a bowl with food and for a couple of weeks we hand fed her every bite until it was gone. Then we switched things by putting a bite of food from our hand into the bowl and let her eat that. Why cant the animal behaviorist try that instead of using that fake hand that doesn't smell like a hand? Our method worked amazingly well. No more food aggression.

Foster Journal

It’s a good idea to keep a journal of the time you have spent with your foster. This will provide important information for prospective and adoptive families to understand the route and progress of the dog. Many rescues will require it for all foster families and it is a good way to keep track of all behavior, issues and successes you have had.

Foster Dogs Support Group

A support group for people who foster is available here at rescuecollective.com. Use this resource and share your experiences with others and they will share their’s with you. You are not alone, we are here to help and support you.

Aside from regular day-to-day care (feeding, grooming, exercise), the responsibilities of a foster home may include basic training (housetraining, walking on leash, sit, down); behavior modification (to correct problems such as jumping, mouthing, barking, destructive chewing, dashing through doors); socialization and temperament evaluation (to determine whether the dog is good with different types of people and other animals); medical care (dispensing medication, taking the dog to vet appointments), and of course plenty of playtime and snuggling.

After the dog has been nursed back to health, evaluated, and trained, the search begins for a permanent home. Possible methods for finding an adoptive home include hanging posters at the shelter, workplace, and pet supply stores; attending adoption events; putting an ad in the newspaper; posting the dog's picture on websites; and simply spreading the word about the dog to anyone who will listen. Prospective adopters will have the opportunity to come and meet the dog in a home setting. All adoptions take place at the shelter. (If you are placing dogs directly from your home, a kennel license may be required before dogs can legally be transferred. This is usually dependent on the number of dogs transferred per year. Check with your local bureau of dog law enforcement.)

Fostering a dog may seem like a formidable task, but it's a very tangible way to make a difference. Everyone benefits: The foster volunteer gets to spend time with a special dog, and the kennel gains space for a new dog. The foster dog gets a break from kennel life and a second chance at becoming a cherished pet. The new owners get a dog that is better adapted to home life, and therefore has a better chance of remaining in the new home permanently.

Originally written July 1, 2009

http://www.doodlerescuecollective.com/group/drrcsoutheast/forum/top...

Placing Your Foster Dog

When your foster dog is finally healthy and on its way to becoming a well-behaved companion, it's time to let go and begin the search for a loving permanent home. Here are some guidelines to help you with this difficult yet rewarding process.

Finding potential adopters

  • Posters in animal shelters, pet supply stores, vets, clubs, parks, etc
  • Websites
  • Newspapers
  • Dog vest or bandanna with rescue group logo
  • Purebred rescue groups -- Please do not overwhelm these people with mixed breeds unless you feel confident that the dog is predominately of a certain breed. Let them know that you will continue to foster the dog but would appreciate any leads regarding potential adopters.

Pre-screening interested parties -- Ask them the following questions:

  • Why do you want a dog?
  • What traits are you looking for in a dog?
  • What is your past experience with pets?
  • What happened to your last dog?
  • Do you have other pets now?
  • Do you have kids? How old?
  • Where will the dog live / sleep / spend most of its time?
  • Do you plan to take obedience classes?
  • Are you prepared for the amount of time/money/exercise/grooming/training required?
  • Are you willing to use a crate or other confinement if necessary?
  • Do you own your home or have permission from your landlord?

Watch for these warning signs

  • Thinks the adoption fee is too high
  • Asks if he can foster the dog instead of paying the adoption fee
  • Has a "nice doghouse out back"
  • Wants a "guard dog"
  • Has an unusually long history of dogs that ran away, got hit by cars, "didn't work out," etc.
  • Thinks crates are cruel (irrelevant if dog is housetrained and not destructive). NOTE: Even if someone is "home all day," there will be times when the dog must be left alone. A crate is the safest option. For most dogs, crating is temporary.

Screening/meeting potential adopters

  • Schedule a time and place to meet.
  • Don't waste your time with no-shows or people who fail to return calls. If they are truly interested, they will show up on time and call you back promptly.
  • Watch interactions. Does the dog seem to like the person? How does the person interact with the dog? If there are children, are they reasonably calm and gentle around the dog, or do they run around and scream and play roughly? Does the dog act fearful or aggressive with them?
  • Be honest. If the dog has known behavior problems, don't try to hide them from potential adopters. Bring the problem to their attention and give training suggestions. If they seem unwilling or unable to handle the problem, do not give them the dog.
  • Give the person time to think it over if they wish. However, experience has shown that most people will know almost immediately if they really "click" with the dog. If they seem undecided, they will probably not adopt.
  • Never promise a dog to anyone until you are certain it is a good match.
  • Be patient. You don't need to accept the first home that comes along. If something doesn't feel right, keep looking. The right home will come in time.

Finalizing the adoption

  • Dog must be neutered if this has not already been done
  • Paperwork must be filled out before they get the dog -- no exceptions
  • Keep in touch. Let them know that you will be calling in a few days. Offer to help with any behavior problems that may arise.

Selection from: http://fosterdogs.com/

SO,  

What is fostering a dog all about?

Think of fostering this way. There is a saying for parents and children that says, "if you are raising them right, you are raising them to not need you." Birds push babies out of the nest. Otherwise how would they ever learn to take that first flight? Same is true with kitty/cat or puppy/dog. Your real job is to make them as adoptable as possible to someone without all the issues people usually use as excuses to surrender their animals to shelters in the first place. Keep all this in mind before committing to fostering. It is very rewarding and makes you feel wonderful when the right situation comes along for the animal and they get that forever home, but it is also a responsibility to that animal that you do your part correctly. Shelters or rescues provide full vetting costs (or they should) and better rescues (not sure about shelters) screens adopters for the animals in their rescue. Communication is key and definitely in the best interest of getting an animal the perfect home.

Every shelter and every rescue needs fosters. Without them, more animals would be dying and there is no reason to look further than your own backyard.

Look on Petfinder or the Internet for a shelter or rescue near you or in a breed you are familiar with or enjoy. Sign up. Ask the rescue to plainly explain what is expected from you as a foster. You should be required to fill out a foster application and contract or agreement. Remember, this is about the wellbeing of an animals life. This application is similar to an adoption contract with reference checks too, where they are getting to know you and how you have treated your own pets.

 

This is where I personally would want details of who is responsible for what, clearly written out so there is little or no room for interpretation. What are you responsible to provide the animal and what are they responsible to provide in writing? Most the time you are providing the animal, besides love and your home, food, socialization, basic training (i.e. house breaking if needed) and sometimes you are involved at some level in the adoption process of the pet since you are the best person to describe their traits. Be sure both are aware if you are offering temporary or long term fostering. If temporary, again I would want that in writing with a specific date listed on foster agreement for pick up. This is an important step since I have seen relationships between rescue and foster become strained due to not being clear and specific with one another. Be sure to get a copy of any paperwork for animal and the foster agreement you signed, too.

This article was originally published on the Petfinder.com blog. By Emily Fromm, Petfinder.com executive producer. It is geared toward cats, but applies for dogs, too.

 

I encourage everyone I know to foster -- even if they're dead set on adopting. Not only does fostering provide an invaluable service to rescue groups and the shelters who depend on them (not to mention the pets themselves), it's a great way to learn about your own needs as a pet owner. (You can't know if you've got what it takes to walk a young puppy at 1, 3 and 6 a.m. until you've done it!) But I've heard a lot of excuses -- er, reasons -- why people can't or don't want to foster. So I was delighted to get the article below in a newsletter from the Merrimack River Feline Rescue Society, which answers just about every possible excuse. (It was written by Liz Pease, the shelter's director of operations.)

 

With shelters overflowing and many people needing temporary care for their pets while they find new housing or weather a crisis, fostering is even more important these days. So print out this list and give it to everyone you know who thinks they just "can't" foster.

 

"I DON'T HAVE THE SPACE" -- I used to think this too. Then a cat came along that really, really needed me ... and I made the space! All it takes is a small spare bedroom or office, a bathroom, or even a corner where you can set up a playpen cage, which you can borrow from us! While we do need foster cats to stay separate from your own cats, it doesn't take much space to do that. And remember, whatever space you have at home is probably more than the kitty has here at the shelter now! [Editor's note: This is also what I tell people who think they can't adopt a big dog because they live in an apartment--Emily]

 

"I MIGHT GET ATTACHED" -- OK, yes, you might. But no matter how difficult it is to bring your kitty back to the shelter, just knowing that you're helping to save a life should ease any short-term pain. When you take in a foster cat, it gives us room to help other cats that might otherwise be brought to shelters that euthanize for time and space. It also lets us learn more about a cat's personality than we ever could in a shelter environment, which, in turn, makes the cat much easier to adopt out. Yes, some cats are harder to bring back than others, but be strong! You can do it! (And yes, I've kept one foster cat, but not the 60 that followed that first one!)

 

"MY OWN CATS WON'T TOLERATE A FOSTER CAT, ESPECIALLY AN ADULT" -- If you have a separate room, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Yes, your cat(s) will know there is another cat in the house, and they may be a little upset about it at first. But chances are they'll get over it pretty quickly, especially if you make sure you wash your hands after visiting with the foster cat and keep the cats from seeing each other if possible. Feliway Comfort Zone diffusers or Rescue Remedy flower essence can also help. Tell your cats they need to help do their part too! Eventually, they will be totally nonchalant about the whole idea of fostering. My cats no longer even bat an eyelash when a foster cat comes into the house.

 

"I CAN'T AFFORD TO TAKE ANOTHER CAT" -- This one is easy! You can get all your food and litter from MRFRS if you like, and MRFRS covers all medical expenses associated with foster cats! If you buy your own supplies for fosters, save the receipts so you can take a tax deduction!

 

"A SHELTER CAT MIGHT GET MY OWN CATS SICK" -- If you follow basic health protocols, such as washing your hands between handling cats and wearing an over-shirt when handling the foster cat, you shouldn't have any problems. A sick cat should be kept in a separate room, and bedding/clothing should be washed with bleach after use. We are also happy to provide you with a bottle of heavy-duty kennel disinfectant for cleaning if you like!

 

"SOMEONE ELSE WILL SAY YES. THERE ARE PLENTY OF OTHER FOSTER HOMES" -- They won't and there aren't. It's that simple. We have lots of folks who will take kittens, but very few who will take adults, and even fewer who will take sick, feral, and/or rabies-quarantine cats. Please help us! Kittens are easy for us to place. But our poor adults need help too.

 

"I ALREADY HAVE A FOSTER CAT" -- All right. Well, this gets you partly off the hook. But wouldn't your foster kitty like a friend? While this article is specific to cats and, in some places, to MRFRS, its message applies to most other animals and rescue groups. Of course, every rescue group has different expectations of fosters, but it's true across the board that fosters are desperately needed and fostering is immensely rewarding. Want to find a group to foster for?

 

Look on Petfinder to find a rescue group near you and then give 'em a call. You'll be glad you did -- and so will they.

 

http://www.petfinder.com/how-to-help-pets/eight-reasons-you-can-fos...

Oodles of Doodles Rescue Collective is always looking for wonderful foster families all over the US and Canada. Come foster with us, fill out our application:

http://www.emailmeform.com/builder/form/eIPmewx9Hrad3J50W3feX

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This will be good to read BEFORE my next foster baby!! Thank you Lynne!!

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